It's been a awhile. This one isn't going to be a regular post.
This is going to be a living document. I will update and put more info and slowly build it out fill in some blanks here and there.
I'll flesh out more of a "Blog post" here in due time, however this will mostly be used to publish my questions so other I show this page may be able to assist.
If you'd like to see more reads like this, let me know and I will try my best to accommodate. Shout out to all the people on discord who have been helping me with this since I got it last week. I have already learned a lot. I have also been told from all the pictures that this was a great first TV project so heres to hoping it goes well!
Alright here's the info and photo dump. Enjoy
Issue: Set does not turn on (DUH 50 Years of component degradation)
Current Diagnosis: TV is in need of full electrical Restoration
Plan Abstract
Issue | Resolution/Progress |
Repair rear grill | Progress with Epoxy 2/3rds done |
Remove chassis and inspect unit further | Removed, dusted, and inspecting |
Count capacitors and order replacements | Counted and ordered all non electrolytic need to count electrolytics and order them |
Replace capacitors |
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Test circuit without rectifiers or sweep tube and check voltages from transformer |
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Test emission on tubes |
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Inspect schematic for clues about the loose wire from near deflection circuit |
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Repair yoke of tv |
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Replace anode cap (missing the cup) |
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First power up test with crt |
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Adjust and align unit |
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Cabinet restoration | Mostly just polishing, will do after picture tube is confirmed good |
Notes:
Initial Inspection 1/8/2023
Cosmetic condition when received. Fair
Need pics of damage to cabinet
Cracked rear panel
Worked on Glueing back together first
Making Progress need to epoxy back side with reinforcements (yes those are toothpicks, the idea they act as a ribbing to prevent the crack from reforming
Next time I do this will be with fiberglass and epoxy...
The Tribulation of getting it up the stairs to my apartment
Emily In all her glory in my bedroom (Shes a big girl Sheesh
Once upstairs it was a simple cleaning process
Took tube diagram picture
Obtained cat approval to proceed
Chassis Inspection and Removal
Cabinet Inspection
Started inspecting the inside and working to remove cabinet.
The CRT neck needs the octal base glued back in place, it's loose
Also went through and noted where each socketed plug goes (Black ontop of HV, Blue on Right, 4 Pin plug by Deflection circuit.
Noticed there is a loose wire on the socket, need to locate where that goes. Looks like the ground for the Yoke Shield? At least according to the schematic.
The yoke was loose, worried it was damaged, looked like it actually is positioned by the rear mount not by shims on the tube
Grounding for the Aquadag.
Looks like the screw on the cage on the right side of the CRT is BAcked out and missing a washer. Is this where that Ground lead is supposed to go?
Disassembled the chassis from the cabinet. Noticed that one bolt was missing.
Looks like someone's been in 'ere!?
Stuck chassis bolts to the speaker core
Look at the spots without dust
This must be the first time in more than 50 years the chassis has been removed
Top Chassis inspection
Went through and inspected chassis for any noticeable damage or faults
Noticed one wire sticking up through by 3rd IF, need picture of it... might be a lead to prevent oscillation in the IF circuit.
Painstakingly with a damp cloth and wide paint brush, dusted and cleaned chassis, noticed mild corrosion, but nothing major. Will need to clean with WD40 after all tubes are removed
Here she is all dusted, will need further cleaning
Underside inspection
Before this repair I had never seen Sand cast resistors like these before. I was used to the rectangular ceramic ones
Apparently they are common on early high wattage, but cost cut devices.
They also take on moisture if in a humid environment, crack and corrode as mine did.
Electrical Inspection 1/9/23 - 1/11/2023
On train to work looked up schematic for unit, might be the ground for the yokes cage? It’s missing the rear cap between the magnet and the windings.
Organized and stored the tubes
Marked duplicates with ticks and marked chassis
Electrical inspection continued
The Whole Underside
I took MANY more photos than what is shown here. At all diferent angles incase something is repaired wrong or misplaced
Wax Ceramic Capacitor count and values
Tallis
.22 200v lll
.1 600v l
.1 200v l
.1 400v ll
.047 400v lll
.0047 400v ll
.001 400 lllll
.001 600 l
.015 200 l
.01 600v ll
.01 400v ll
Count | Capacitance (µf/MFD) | Voltage |
3o | 0.22µf | 200V |
1o | 0.1µf | 600V |
1o | 0.1µf | 200V |
2o | 0.1µf | 400V |
3o | 0.047µf | 400V |
2o | 0.0047µf | 400V |
5o | 0.001µf | 400V |
1o | 0.001µf | 600V |
1o | 0.015µf | 200V |
2o | 0.01µf | 600V |
2o | 0.01µf | 400V |
TOTAL: 23 Wax Paper Capacitors |
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Paper Wax Molded Capacitors (Bumblebees)
Tallies
YPOY 47000pf .047 400v I
YPOR 47000pf .047 200v I
YPRY 4700pf .0047 400v II
YPRB 4700pf .0047 600v I
RRRY 2200pf .0022 400v II
BGOR 15000PF.015 400v I
RRYR 220000pf .22 200v I?? Looks faded pretty sure its red
Count | Capacitance | Voltage |
1o | .047 | 400 |
1o | .047 | 200 |
2o | .0047 | 400 |
1o | .0047 | 600 |
2o | .0022 | 400 |
1o | .0015 | 400 |
1 | .22 | 200 |
REPLACE THESE AT THE LINE WITH XY SAFETY CAPS
47000pf .047 400v XY CAPS ll
Capacitor Totals by Value all rated at 600V on new ones
Capacitance (MFD) | Count | Needed | On Hand | Ordered | Stock After |
.0047 | IIIII | 5 | 0 | 15 | 10 |
.047 | IIIII | 5 | 7 | 20 | 22 |
.0022 | II | 2 | 0 | 15 | 13 |
.22 | IIII | 4 | 0 | 5 | 1 |
.001 | IIIIII | 6 | 0 | 25 | 19 |
.015 | II | 2 | 0 | 10 | 8 |
.01 | IIII | 4 | 4+1@500V | 40 | 41 |
.1 | IIII | 4 | 0 | 20 | 16 |
TOTALS |
| 32 Total Capacitors | 11 | 150 | 130 |
Ordered an assorted bag of Orange Drop capacitors
- 25 of 0.001uF at 630V
- 10 of 0.0015uF at 630V
- 15 of 0.0022uF at 630V
- 10 of 0.0033uF 630V
- 15 of 0.0047uF at 630V
- 5 of 0.0068uF at 630V
- 40 of 0.01uF at 630V
- 10 of 0.015uF 630V
- 15 of 0.022uF at 630V
- 15 of 0.033uF at 630V
- 20 of 0.047uF at 630V
- 15 of 0.068uF at 630V
- 5 of 0.082uF at 630V
- 20 of 0.1uF at 630V
- 5 of 0.22uF 630V
- 8 feet of spaghetti tubing
(!!!!!!!!! EVERYTHING BELOW HERE IS A WORK IN PROGRESS !!!!!!!!!)
Electrolytic Capacitors
10uf 25 v
40uf 450V
80uf
5uf
40uf
Received Electrolytic capacitors from CJ at a VCF Workshop
LETS GOOOOOO
Replaced all the capacitors in the TV over the course of a few weeks
WILL NEED TO PUT PHOTOS HERE OF WORK DONE
FROM HERE ON OUT I WILL BE PUTTING PICTURES OF MAJOR ACCOMPLISHMENTS ONLY
I don't want to flood this full of useless pictures
Once all the Capacitors were replaced I fired up the TV for the first time
No video displayed, an audible arcing noise like the clicking of a pen could be heard and a visible arc could be seen between the rear Tube support and the Auqadag. I quickly turned it off and from there reattached that loose wire from the Yoke socket to it. Which stopped the visible arcing, however, the audible clicking was still present.
Ignoring my better judgement and having excitement led to me adjusting the ion trap and displaying an image for the first time.
A test pattern from my drifty generator... well regardless I had an image so I began adjusting the screen.
When turning the Vertical height control something interesting happened. the 6W6GT Arced over then BANG a visible arc from under tyhe chassis could be found.
A capacitor blew out and one of the big ones...a .22MFD. C89 Blew out the side. Which comes off Pin 8 of V19 6DQ6 Horizontal Output. Why did a horizontal bypass capacitor on the Cathode of the sweep tube blew when adjusting the Vertical output and arc the 6W6?
After replacing this capacitor I no longer heard the arcing, but a different problem arose. I lost all high voltage in the TV.
I shelved the TV at this point and there it sat until today, 3/15.
3/15/23
With newfound courage, a schematic, and a meter I began poking and prodding in the TV.
I got 228 instead of 230 overall, after the choke for the RF Circuit its 227 instead of 225. Both of which are comfortably in tolerance, The Audio circuit is the weird, It should be 150V but I'm reading 210.
Armed with this we have three voltages in the TV for B+
150VDC - This feeds most of the IF and Audio circuit and the horizontal phase inverter
225VDC - Everything that isn't 150V is 225V These two voltages combined appear to run the entire TV
230VDC - THere is one point I have found on the schematic.. The 6V6 Audio output B+
Seeing as the AF/RF is dependent on the 150V line, it makes sense that the most of the TV isn't working right now.
I located while prodding around a bad capacitor in the V8 area, 6AU6 the Audio IF tube. R46 is reading 67 ohms when it should be 47. well over 30% out of tolerance. This will need to be replaced
Tomorrow I will be investigating the Vertical arc over, testing the 6W6 and testing resitances all through out the unit.